Garment pattern



A. C. GOOSMAN Feb. 22, 1927.

GARMENT PATTERN 5 Sheets-Sheet Filed May 16, 1924 v s abseits: C

atto/Lum Feb. 22, 1927.

A. C. GOOSMAN GARMENT PATTERN Filed May 16, 1924 3 Sheets-Sheet 2 infin..

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Feb. 22, 1927. A Cl GOO'SMAN GARMENT PATTERN Filed May 16, 1924 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 l1/Wenko@ A6 60m/7mm,

. 9 wat E 355 Patented Feb. 22, 1927.

GARINT Application led May 1G,

This invention relates to improvements inl larger or smaller dimensions may be readily made. '.inotlier object -is to 'pro-vide ya pattern constructed in sections 'which ae readily adjustable to vary the pattern so to change the shape of the vgarment from normail to suit any variations ligure from the normal that may be necessary in the production ot any garmeiit. y

The invention Aconsists ot the features of construction, combination and arrangement ot parts herein tully described and claimed, reference being had to the accoi'npai'iying drawings `in which:-

Figure l is applan vieivyo't a drafting -pattern constructed in accordance with my inven-tion. 1

Figures 2 and 3 are longitudinal sections on the lines 2 2 and 3 3 ot' Figure '1.

Figure Ll is aplan view ot the pattern sections separated.

'Figure 5 lis an enlarged detail viewV ot a portion ot the pattern.

Figure G is a Vplan view illustrating adjustability ot the parts of the pattern sheet.

Figure 7 is a plan view ot amodilied form ot pattern, vadapted especially for use as a model pattern.

Figure 8 is a detail vieW of a portion thereof on'an enlarged scale.

Figure 9 is a vvie'tjv illustrating the mode ot producing a drafting pattern trom the model pattern.

Referring particularly to Figs. l to 6 inclusive, of the drawings, A designates a pattern made of cardboard, heavy papers, or other suitable material, and which consti- A tutes one element drafting a particular garment, such las a coat. This pattern is composed ot a body section B and an end section or shoulder section C, the normal yplane of division between said sections being along the transverse line B; The pattern has a straight longitudinal side margin a, and a straight end margin b, the side and end margins being shaped as required and having' grade points c, d, c, f and g, from each of Which extends radially in line or parallel therewith a longitudinal guide slot D, Which is employed in lieu of the usual grade line ot an-ordinary patin the shape otsection B, and

of a setot patterns for' 1,618,874 UNITED STATES PATENT ortica.

AARoN o. GoosMAN, or ROCHESTER, Ytuev? YORK.

PATTERN.

1924. serial no. traste;

tcrn.- Each ot these slots `is `ot a suitable from pattern sizes 32 'to 4A, inclusive, and

the numeral 38 of the scale, which indicates the Vsize of the garment torvwh'ich the pattern is designed, is prominently set otl rom the remainder ot the numerals and denoted by a prominent scale line or indication L. The purposeot these grade line guide slots and scale will be here'ii'iatter fully explained.

The pattern A may be designed, as shown inthe present instance, for forming one ot' the portions or sections of va coat, Waist or like garment, and its body portion B and end section C maybe shaped to accord o r deline the neck and shoulder portion oi the garment. As shown, the said sectioiis B and C are centrally connected at their meeting portions by an elastic strip or band E, which is disposed substantially in the center line o'l" the pattern, While adjacent the sides ot the at like distances on opposite sides ot thestrip, are arranged spring clamping members I having tongues a', which claml'ii'ng members arey suitably vseciu'ed to the garment section B and project over upon thefextension B2 of said section sofas to slid-` ably receive the adjacentedge ot ythe section C and clamp the same against said exteir sion B. The'elastic band E holds the vtwo sections B and 'C assembled and prevents their separation, While the spring clamps and their lingers c' serve to holdlthe section C in fixed and adjusted relation with respect to the line B ot the section B, thus permitting the section C' to be moved longitudinally with relation to the section B for the purpose ot extending the length of the pattern Within certain limits, or to 1 permit the section C to be set at an angle relatively to the section B for lthe production ot a pattern varying to agreater or less degree from the normal.

The side margins of the section B are provided in registry With the guide lline B With indicating notches y'- and scales extending in opposite directions trom said notches, which scales are preferably arranged in one-eighth inch divisions so as to indicate degrees of adjustment of the section C with relation to the line B', While along the curved margin of the section C in proximity to the point 6 is a similar scale j.

In the use of the device as a model pattern of a fixed size, say for a No. 38 garment, it will be readily understood that the pattern sheet of normal size and contour may be readily made therefrom by simply marking ofil the grade line or contour points, connecting the same by pencil lines and then cutting out the pattern so marked. If it should be desired to make a pattern which is larger than the model pattern, say for a No. Ll() size, this is accomplished by first marking or laying off the points on the pattern paper, scribing lines along the fixed margins t and and then outlining the curved margins in dotted lines, as shown in Figure 9, after which grade lines D are marked upon the pattern sheet by means of the point of a pencil inserted through the grade line slots B and drawn along the scale margins,

Vthe lines being marked oftl at the point i-O to indicate the positions from which the grade lines and points are to be established. The model pattern is then adjusted to turn upon each grade line to bring the numeral 38 thereon into registry with the marked point portion of the grade line, Which will set the pattern point associated with the particular grade line two pattern degrees or marks farther out beyond the dotted line. These points are so set or marked off upon the pattern sheet until this Work is completed, when the new or extended pattern points are connected by outside lines, as indicated in Figure 9, the outside line determining the contour of the pattern margins for a pattern for a No. 40 garment, along which and the fixed margins the pattern is then out out. In a similar manner a pattern smaller than the model pattern may be laid off, except in this instance that the indieating marks on the laid off grade lines Will be placed inside instead of out-side of numeral 38 to the desired degree, for a 32, 34 or 36 size pattern, or any intermediate or fractionalsize. By adjusting the section C out or in With reference to the guide line B, the length of the pattern may be varied from the normal as occasion may require to suit any abnormal figure, and it Will also be understood that by adjusting one of the side margins of the pattern section C a greater distance from the guide line B than its other side margin, and setting said pattern section C at an angle to the line B, as indicated and particularly in Figure 6, the slope or contour of the fixed and curved lines of the end or Shoulder portion C may be varied to accord With peculiarities in the stoop or set of the back and shoulders ofthe individual for Whom the garment is designed. These degrees of adjustment may be determined by the scales associated with the notches j and thc scale j whereby the variation of the angle between the points D and E may be detern'iined and laid off, as will be readily under` stood.

ln the modified form of my invention shown in Figures 7 and 9, the construction is the same as that previously described, except that the body and end portions B2 and C2 are integral or fixed with relation to each other. This form of model pattern is to be employed in the production of drafting patterns which do not vary from the normal except in the nature of pattern size. lt will be noted that in both structures the slots and pattern size scales are arranged in a similar manner with relation to the points of the pattern. Preferably the graduations of these scales are formed, except as regards the designating pattern number graduation, of comparatively small and narrow notrhes, the pattern number designating graduation being formed of a vWider and deeper notch, so that all liability of confusion in laying ofi' the grade lines Will be avoided.

lt will be evident that by the use of my improved model patterns, drafting patterns may be readily and conveniently made; that patterns of larger or smaller size than the two-part construction of model pattern various changes of a stock pattern may be easily and conveniently made as circumstances may require to provide' a pat-tern to suit any particular shape of body. lt Will, of course, be understood that the patterns may be made and employed in the production of garments of all kinds, for men, Women and children.

I claim A garment pattern of the character described comprising body and end sections, said sections being provided With grade points and grade slots arranged adjacent the inner section of the marginal edges thereof. the adjacent grade points and grade slots being approximately arranged in alignment, a scale arranged parallel With each of said slots, an elastic band centrally connecting said sections at their meeting portions in a manner whereby to permit relative longi- 'tudinal and lateral movement therebetween,

and fingered spring clamping members disposed upon each side of said elastic band and associated with said sections to permitA said movement.

In testimony whereof I affix my signature.

AARON C. GOOSMAN. 

